A blog to talk about Olive Oil and about us

We decided to create a space where we can write about what we do and why we do it. About a passion that became a profession. About a love for our land and for nature.

Olive oil is an integral part of our daily life, throughout the entire year. The Olivastra Seggianese grows under our care, guardian of this land called the Conca d’Oro, where it reigns unchallenged.

When we talk about this, we are also talking about ourselves. There is an inseparable bond.

We could almost say that extra virgin olive oil runs through our veins, in place of blood. We know its scent, its colour, its density. We know how to obtain it and how to preserve it at its best.

For those who want to understand the reason behind all of this, for those who want to get to know us, for those who are simply curious to discover how far we can go.

We look forward to seeing you here.

Does a litre of olive oil cost more than a litre of synthetic motor oil?

A provocative guide to choosing the perfect oil

It is not easy to make consumers understand that real olive oil carries a significant cost — one built up over an annual cycle that, day after day, month after month, brings a unique product to our table.

How much does a great organic extra virgin olive oil cost? And how much does a great synthetic motor oil cost for your car?
A website belonging to a world-famous oil producer states the following:

The engine is a complex machine, with hundreds of moving components operating across a wide temperature range and subject to various stress factors. The oil you choose must be able to adapt to these operating conditions to protect the engine from wear, corrosion, and the build-up of dirt and deposits. Lubricants have a heavy impact on: performance, fuel consumption, emissions. Lubricants carry several responsibilities: protection from wear, engine cleanliness, long engine life, etc…

This helps us understand the meaning of oil for the human body too.

Extra virgin olive oil contains 

  • vitamins,
  • antioxidants
  • phytosterols
  • monounsaturated fatty acids

nutritional composition that makes it a product of great importance for our bodies — naturally, as long as it is consumed in moderate amounts.

So we can say that both of these oils are important for their respective functions, improving the mechanisms of their respective “machines”. So why do we always question whether olive oil is too expensive?

This happens when we are standing in front of a supermarket shelf or in front of a website like ours.  

Yet when we take our car in for a service we never ask ourselves that question. And yet we have seen that the function of the two oils is more or less the same! 

To avoid falling into this trap, we need to understand the costs that make up the final price of a great organic extra virgin olive oil:

1. The olive tree is pruned regularly every year or at most every two years. The cost of pruning can reach, for trees of the size of our Olivastra Seggianesi, up to €20 per tree.

2. The olive tree must be fertilised. Every year organic compost or farmyard manure is applied, at a variable cost of €2–3 per tree.

3. An organically managed olive grove requires a certification that must be renewed annually, in compliance with a strict set of rules and specifications. The cost depends on the certifying body.

4. Organic treatments, permitted only with products approved by the certification protocol, carry high costs and must often be carried out multiple times throughout the season.

5. To achieve higher quality, organic olives are often harvested earlier than conventional olives, to avoid an attack of the olive fly, which can strike in September and October. This results in a lower oil yield from the olives, as they are not yet fully ripe.

6. Our Olivastra Seggianesi are harvested strictly by hand, using electronic raking combs, collected on nets spread on the ground, and sent to our mill within six hours. The average cost per quintal of Seggianese olives ranges between €50 and €80.

7. The olives must be pressed at the mill, with organic olives always given priority. The cost per quintal of olives at the mill ranges between €15 and €20.

8. High-quality oil must be filtered to preserve all the characteristics it had at extraction, to keep it intact, and to guarantee a shelf life of at least eighteen months. Filtration costs approximately €0.20–0.40 per kg.

9. Finally, the oil must be bottled, capped, labelled and boxed.

All of these stages mean that the cost of an organic and/or PDO oil can reach up to €40.

Behind that price lies everything we have just described. What’s more, you will find it all documented: the label must indicate who made it and where it was made — precise details, not vague generalities.

If you have read this far, we are confident that you will no longer hesitate when it comes to choosing a quality oil.

The crusher makes the difference

It’s not all about the olive. A lot depends on how it’s pressed.

Just as in the world of wine, every cultivar (short for cultivated variety), meaning every type of olive, gives the final product a unique taste and flavour, all other conditions and mill types being equal.

It is worth noting that Italy is the country with the greatest number of olive varieties (cultivars) in the world. There are over five hundred, including:

  • Leccino
  • Frantoio
  • Moraiolo
  • Biancolilla
  • Coratina
  • Ogliarola
  • Moresca
  • Casaliva
  • Nocellara
  • Pendolino

Many regions therefore have the opportunity to produce several types of oil depending on which olives are used.

When an oil is produced from a single variety it is called monocultivar; when several types of olive are blended together to make the oil, it is called a blend or a cut.

Spain, which holds the world record for olive oil production, counts roughly half the olive varieties that Italy boasts. It is also the only other world producer that comes close to Italy in terms of olive variety.

The presence of so many olive varieties (and therefore oils) has created a phenomenon similar to what happened with wine. The oil menu is now gaining traction. Like a wine list, it serves to match the right type of oil to the most suitable dish, opening up new possibilities for the world of cooking and dining.

Do these new possibilities arise solely from having so many cultivars?

How do you avoid unpleasant problems?

How do you obtain an oil with the perfect flavour?

The great majority of an oil’s characteristics arise from the combination of climatic conditions and soil characteristics.  

Take our Olivastra Seggianese: if you were to take one of its trees and plant it anywhere else in Italy or the Mediterranean, it would never produce an oil as special as the one it gives us here — it would have an entirely different taste and flavour. The same applies to the different climatic conditions in which the plant grows and that define our area. 

Beyond these characteristics, there are others to take into account. Or rather, there is one very specific place where a real difference can be made: the mill.

To bring out the best in a cultivar’s oil, to avoid unpleasant defects, to obtain an oil with the perfect flavour — much depends on what happens here. A great deal.

of superior category obtained directly from olives and solely by mechanical means as every fine label proudly declares in capital letters.

Davide Borselli in his mill — Poderi Borselli — Montegiovi, Castel del Piano (GR)

The mill is the place of creation. Here a good oil can be made, an excellent oil that can represent a turning point for a producer. 

But the mill can also be the place of destruction. Lurking around the corner are always errors that can destroy what nature has created so magnificently, in just a few minutes.

But let’s start from the beginning.

Olives must absolutely be harvested and then brought to the mill in the shortest possible time — we are talking about a few hours. This is because, from the moment an olive is detached from the tree, fermentation begins to set in, driven by the small quantities of sugar contained in the olive.

The longer the time between harvesting and pressing, the greater the likelihood that fermentation will take hold, leading to defects in the oil (which we will then find in the final product), such as “heated,” “musty,” “winey,” and so on.

A skilled miller knows exactly that damaged or defective olives must be processed after all the others; otherwise they will spoil the entire day’s harvest — or, if the olives are already severely defective, they will certainly be rejected and not processed at all.

From the moment the olives arrive at the mill to the point they reach the crusher, there are two situations a miller hopes never to have to deal with:

1. Heated oil. This is an unpleasant odour characteristic of oil extracted from olives that have been piled up or stored poorly. Such storage creates the perfect conditions for anaerobic fermentation (as described above), which compromises the quality of the olive and, subsequently, of the oil.

2. Rancidity. Again, this is a negative note caused by the oxidation of oil that is not stored correctly — meaning away from light sources, heat sources, and without contact with air.

How do you avoid these two types of problems and achieve a perfect oil?

In the first case, if our olives arrive at the mill in good condition (free from olive fly damage and not too far along in ripening) within a few hours, we will have already taken an important step towards an oil worthy of being called extra virgin.

In the second case, we must rely on the crusher. The crusher, which today is built entirely in stainless steel, has replaced the legendary granite millstones. The concept behind the millstones was truly interesting — they had a much gentler effect than modern hammer crushers, breaking the olives delicately. The ancient millstones, however, had the drawback of exposing the olive paste to open air and, as a result, to oxidation. 

The crusher therefore becomes fundamental. Today, most crushers fall into the following categories:

  • Fixed-hammer crushers, high rotation speed (2,800 rpm) and small-diameter grid (5 mm)
  • Low-speed crushers (1,400–1,500 rpm), disc or hammer type with wider-hole grids (6–8 mm).
  • Knife crushers, with one or more grids rotating in the same direction or in opposite directions.

The choice of crusher has multiple implications. Depending on the crusher used, the olive skin will be broken down more or less finely, and greater or lesser amounts of chlorophyll — which gives the oil its green colour — will be extracted.

The crusher chosen by Poderi Borselli is the knife crusher.

This is a crusher that operates at lower temperatures and a lower number of revolutions, allowing for more delicate and harmonious oils to be obtained, without excessive bitter or pungent imbalances. Furthermore, the knife crusher allows for a “semi-peeling” of the pit rather than a full crushing as with hammer mills. 

This means that almost 20% of the processed olives enter the malaxer without being broken, resulting in more pleasant, less woody oils. 

The only drawback is the oil yield, which can sometimes be lower than that of the hammer crusher, due to the less thorough crushing of the olives and therefore less efficient centrifugal extraction.

It is therefore clear that the type of crusher chosen will influence not only the colour of the oil, but also the taste (more or less pronounced bitterness and pungency) and the aroma. 

In short, everything that we may or may not enjoy in the final product!

The importance of this stage is evident. The rest of the production process can still influence the various defects that may be found in the oil, but nothing shapes the soul of the oil quite as much as the crusher.

Did you know about this crucial step? If not, we hope we have helped you discover something new!

Èstra: the story behind an oil’s name

A village tale worth more than any marketing campaign

In Montegiovi, right in front of the crossroads that leads to Poderi Borselli, there is a bench — one of those light-green iron ones where, in summer, the village elders sit in the evening to chat.

How many stories that bench must have heard! One of them concerns us closely. 

It was November a few years ago, harvest and pressing time throughout the valley. 

The days, though no longer very long, still offered a sun that — if not warm — was at least mild, and in the early afternoon hours it was still ideal even for the lizards on the walls.

That day, the bench was occupied by its usual occupants, who naturally could not help talking about how that year the olives were yielding little, about the olive fly that “had done its damage“, and about how “the oil just isn’t what it used to be!“. 

That day, those same occupants, watching the steady stream of traffic heading towards Poderi Borselli, wondered: “I wonder how Borselli’s oil will turn out this year. It would be something to find out in advance!”

As everyone knows, in small villages, on calm days like that, anything can spark the imagination. And we all know that in Tuscany we are rather creative

Just at that moment, Grullo (so nicknamed, and for good reason) happened to walk by — and you can imagine that the old-timers were not going to let such an opportunity slip. With just a few words they persuaded him to walk up to Poderi Borselli and try to sneak a taste of the freshly pressed oil. 

The idea hadn’t come to them out of nowhere — they were imagining Davide’s reaction. 

On arrival, our Grullo, slipping from crate to crate, managed to get inside the mill and, ever so quietly, cupped his hand, dipped it into a container full of oil, lifted it up dripping and drank. 

At the last sip a shout made him jump out of his skin and the last drops of oil splattered to the floor: Davide had caught him. 

In that moment Grullo revealed his talents as a middle-distance runner: in just a few minutes he covered the distance between Poderi Borselli and Montegiovi, sprinting between the olive trees and the vines, all the way back to the village.

On the verge of a respiratory crisis, arriving right in front of the bench and its occupants, and in response to the amused question from those who had commissioned him — “Well then?” — the runner answered, catching his breath between words: “ÈstraÈstraÈstra..” until he collapsed to the ground, exhausted.

Never was a name more fitting, never was a prank more auspicious!

From today, Èstra is here for you too!